Some will think if 24V is possible…

How to make filament for 3d printer? Forums Community Forum Some will think if 24V is possible…

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    Nice work. Thank you!

    I order needed parts and use those what I have already…

    Well, someone ask if 24V PSU is suitable. I will make my own system with 24V (mostly). All other parts I found at 24V than that 300rpm cutter actuator motor. But because all of circuits are own, I can add small 12V PSU also to the cutter. Or 3V or 6V etc.

    Changes what I will make:
    I will use PID controlled thermostat. REX-C100 with K-type thermocouple cost 17€ from aliexpress and you may found it cheaper (without SSR). That came with 40A SSR, but it’s own contact output will handle 5A and that is 120W with 24V, so I think it can handle that 40W resistive load of heater easily.

    That PWM controller can handle 4.5 – 35V, so 24V is OK and I found that same 7rpm motor at 24V version.

    That little 12V 300rpm motor specs say, it draw with normal load at 0.09A and if rotor is stalled, it will take 0.3A. So, small 12V PSU or buck converter is enough.

    PETamentor2 standard thermo controller found various voltages, also 24V.

    I will try use my old 3D printer 150W 24V PSU. That should be suitable (more power than 10A x 12V = 120W).
    And firstly I test 6W 12V 0.5A Extron PSU to cutter. If that is not enough, I will try 1A version (12W) and then 1,5A etc =D.

    Cutter should need 1.2W – 3.6W
    Heater 40W and Spool 10W max.
    Thermostat and PSU:s take 230V AC

    Well, if I found smaller 24V PSU from my scrap box, what is possible, I will use it. Example Crestron 72W (3A) PSU.

    I start printing process, perhaps today. But when I got parts from ali… who knows =)

    • This topic was modified 6 months ago by suorama.

    I dug through my scrap drawer and found few options to fill PSU needs.

    Perhaps I start with one 2.5A x 24V = 60W PSU with that 40W heater.
    Second PSU would be a 0.75A x 24V = 18W to the Spool with max. 10W nominal 4.8W.
    And third would be a 0.5A x 12V = 6W to the cutter max. 3.6W nominal 1.2W.

    All specs are paper specs. So, time show me if I must use bigger powers.

    All those are switching versions, so all are small in size.

    btw. When using change-over switches, you can put both at same orientation. Take power to the motor at the middle spot and put minus to both switches NC (Normal Closed) side and plus to NO (Normal Open) sides. When switches is rest position (both NC) nothing happened, because both motor poles get minus. When you push other switch down, motor other pole get plus and other get still minus, so motor start running. When you push another switch, other pole get plus. So if you push both switch, nothing happened, because both motor poles get plus… =)


    I also plan on using 24v ps. I’m rummaging through my 3d printer spare parts box for parts. I will use a brass heat block with 450C heater. Intend to insulate this stuff to keep steady temp, and play with production speed.

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