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Parts List


XH B310


One of thermometers that are able to measure high temperatures (up to 800°C). You not need to use this part, if you are able to measure nozzle temperature in other way. This is the most simple way, that I found.

Power Supply

12V 5A power supply

You can use 5A and also 10A. The difference is in the stability of the engine speed and the stability of the nozzle temperature. The stronger the source, the faster the nozzle heats up.

PWM Regulator 12V 5A

PWM Regulator 12V 5A

PWM 12V DC Motor Speed Controller Module DC-DC 4.5V-35V Adjustable Speed Regulator. This small component allows for a smooth reduction or increase in engine speed without loss of torque.

12V 7RPM DC Motor

The motor is built into the holder and drives the spool for winding the finished pet filament. This 12V DC motor has its own gearbox (it is not necessary to print the gearbox). This means very high torque without any additional gear system.

Heat Block

diy pet filament heatblock

The heat block is the part heated by the heating element (12V 40W). When choosing, it is important to know that the larger the block, the slower it cools with less temperature fluctuations.

Heater 12V (40W)

Ceramic Heater 12V (40W)

Ceramic heater 12V (40W) is a component that is inserted into the heat block and ensures heating of the nozzle. It is a cheap and simple component.

Diode 1N5408


This cheap component is used for the input modulation for the W1209 heat controller. W1209 is a temperature control module for use in egg hatching incubators. Therefore, the W1209 is designed to operate up to a maximum temperature of 110 ° C. By using a diode, we ensure that the value at the input of the temperature controller drops sufficiently for use up to 250 ° C.


w1209 thermo controller diagram

This is heart of the Petamentor project. W1209 is designed for temperature control up to 110 ° C. That’s not much, so we have to change the behavior of the module using diode 5408 on the input.

100K Thermistor

100k thermistor

This part will replace an original W1209 sensor.

Color Switches

color button

You need one for 230V (EU), or 110 (US) and one for PWM controller 12V. But you can use 230 (up to 250V) for all purposes

Nozzle (must drill DIY)

To convert a PET bottle into filament, I use a standard nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, which must be drilled. Drilling is very simple, using a 1.5mm drill bit. Here is a video tutorial.

Wood screws M2.6 (10-12mm long)

Wood screws that are for attaching all the 3D printed parts of the PETamentor. The wood screws must not be longer than the thickness of your wooden platform.

M3 Screws (10mm)

Screws for cutter assembly, puller assembly and spool assembly. The screw is 10mm long – metric M3 type. You can choose the screw head as you like.

36 thoughts on “Parts List”

    1. Hi, Original diameter was 0.4mm. Then it was drilled with 1.5mm drill bit (now the hole is about a 1.6mm). Final PET filament is about 1.6mm-1.7mm. Its compensated with flow rate (cura settings) about 145% – it works pretty good.

    1. You can use a MIG welder tip they are much cheaper than regular printing tips you do have to drill it out to your desired size this thread size is the same as a regular tip, you also can make your own custom tips you need to cut it put it in a drill press and use sandpaper to make a point like sharpening a pencil they are made of brass but it’s about an inch long which helps the peg to bond together better enjoy.

  1. Hello everyone, I don’t speak a word of English…!!! hence a lot of online research and translation…
    The manufacture of my device is in progress, the parts are printed, all I need is the motor on order from Ali with thermometer and probe.
    I would simply like a clarification that I can’t find in the videos: what adjustment for the height of the bottle ribbon? because I would like to parallel the cutting of the bottle with the extrusion of the filament. Thank you all and have a good day.
    Jean Michel

    Bonjour à tous, je ne parle pas un mot d’Anglais…!!! d’où pas mal de recherche et de traduction en ligne…
    La fabrication de mon appareil est en cours les pièces sont imprimées il ne me manque que le moteur en commande chez Ali avec thermomètre et sonde. j’aimerais simplement une précision que je ne trouve pas dans les vidéo : quel réglage de hauteur de coupe du ruban de bouteille ? car j’aimerais mettre en parallèle la découpe de la bouteille avec l’extrusion du filament. Merci à tous et bonne journée.

    1. I use a strip of 8mm, but you can go from 12mm to 6mm, it’s depend of the thickness of the bottle

  2. You can also buy 1.6mm and 1.75mm drill bits on ebay.
    I will be using a 1.6mm, will report actual size once done.

  3. Ondřej Šraitr : what bracket did you use to hold the heat block and thermometer to, or where can i find something similar.

      1. Hello Ondrej, I was wondering what are the screws you use? Could you possibly post a list of all the screws? I don’t belive I have them on hand so I’d like a list if you can!


  4. the W1209 controls temperature from -30ªC to 110ºC but we need 200-205ºC to extrude pet. How did you fix it?

  5. Can I use a 24v PSU and heater cartrdige? I’ve got several of both lying around. I haven’t had 12v printer parts for a long time now.

  6. Hello, I’m trying to find the correct 12v dc motor, but the closest i could find were 12v 10rpm or 12v 5rpm, which would be better?

  7. Will it be for sale someday? I think that it would be nice if you offer a complete set for others to buy, at least for those that are from cz/sk 🙂

    1. Hi, sorry but No 😁
      This is a 100% hobby project. I saw some, that he is selling his Petamentor on youtube, but thats not for his profit, he gaves it up. This is soo long from a commercial product, no warranties, nothing else. (Pokud to dostane do ruky vůl, bude se vztekat, že to nefunguje a bude dělat virvál – nemám čas někoho řešit 😉. Petamentor si holt každej musí vysloužit svoji prací 😁).

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